Describe the feeling you get when you're out there doing your thing.
The feeling is unlike anything when you’re in the ocean and the waves are big. My love and respect for the water started when I was a young kid running and playing in the ocean. The ocean offers a vastness that disconnects you from reality and serves as a reset to modern life. It’s a gift to be by the beach and play in the ocean where you live by the rules of nature – don’t drown. As you get older, surfing becomes a chase for adrenaline, leading to a state of extreme living.
What’s your proudest moment (or biggest wipeout) in your sport so far?
3 significant experiences come to mind. First, Tavarua: took out an oversized board, it was the best conditions I’ve ever seen, and took in the perfect most epic wave. In Tahiti, the intense tow-in wave at Teahupoʻo that led to a double XXL award and one of the greatest photos in surfing history. And of course a near-death experience in Chile where we snuck out to a dangerous break and got trapped underwater by rocks for too long, hit my head, broke ribs and got pulled to shore by a friend. Those moments of glory, chaos, survival define surfing. No rules, no guarantees.
Photo by Brian Bielmann
How important is what you put in your body when it comes to performance?
For almost a decade, I’ve dedicated one portion of my day to stretching, breathing and mindfulness. Control your breath, control your thoughts, control your life. Consistency is key for aging well. And what you put in your body becomes what your body is. I’m stoked to be part of Daytrip where it’s part of my routine - it’s something I believe in, we have shared philosophies. This is unlike many energy drinks endorsed by athletes, most don’t actually use the product.
Sunrise or sunset?
SUNRISE - no one is up! The early morning hours offer a quiet world to yourself and your thoughts. A fresh new start to the day.
Favorite place in the world to Daytrip?
It used to be chasing the biggest, gnarliest waves all over the world. Now, I’m content with my current surfing life, the ability to surf with my kids on the North Shore - I have this short window of time to surf with my boys and I’m going to embrace it.
Flavor You’ll Chase.
No shortcuts. No junk. Just rugged flavor and clean energy - whether you’re out grinding or recharging.
